Skin science article
Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This hydrating serum is formulated a
Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Polyglycerin-3
Butylene Glycol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Propanediol
Dimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Methylpropanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Pentylene Glycol
Tromethamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Sodium Phytate
Cholesterol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Adenosine Triphosphate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Beta-Glucan
Tocopherol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Copper Gluconate
Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment
Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment
Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment
Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment
Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment
Capryloyl Dipeptide-17
Thioctic Acid
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Glutathione
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil
Potassium Hydroxide
Resveratrol
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Sorbitan Laurate
Steareth-20
Astaxanthin
Sodium Lactate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Panthenol
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Citrate
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
Dextran
Hexapeptide-2
Magnesium Chloride
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Dipeptide-2
Potassium Sorbate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Citric Acid
Biotin
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Dipeptide-4
Hexapeptide-11
Pentapeptide-18
Tripeptide-3
Sh-Decapeptide-7
Sh-Octapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
Hexapeptide-9
Oligopeptide-3
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Ubiquinone
Copper Tripeptide-1
Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1
Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4
Galloyl Pentapeptide-33
Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23
Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Octapeptide-7
Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Decapeptide-9
Sh-Oligopeptide-9
Sh-Pentapeptide-19
Asparagine
Glutamine
Tryptophan
Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-22
Sh-Polypeptide-3
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Carnosine
Nonapeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Gluconate, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Thioctic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glutathione, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Resveratrol, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-20, Astaxanthin, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Dextran, Hexapeptide-2, Magnesium Chloride, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide-2, Potassium Sorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Citric Acid, Biotin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Pentapeptide-18, Tripeptide-3, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ubiquinone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4, Galloyl Pentapeptide-33, Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Octapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Asparagine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Nonapeptide-1
Sea Water
Betaine
Caprylyl Glycol
Allantoin
Malachite Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Glyceryl Glucoside
Potassium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate
Sodium Sulfated Hyaluronate
Madecassoside
Sodium Stearoyl Hyaluronate
Sodium Oleoyl Hyaluronate
Sea Water, Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Malachite Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate, Sodium Sulfated Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Stearoyl Hyaluronate, Sodium Oleoyl Hyaluronate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.