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Numbuzin No.1 Clear Filter Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++

Numbuzin No.1 Clear Filter Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ing

Numbuzin No.1 Clear Filter Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water 20.55%

Centella Asiatica Extract 15%

Houttuynia Cordata Extract 14.25%

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Propanediol

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Niacinamide

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

1,2-Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Methicone

Polysilicone-15

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract

Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Velvet Extract

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Atractylodes Lancea Root Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glyceryl Stearate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Butylene Glycol

Methylpropanediol

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Adenosine

Polyether-1

Madecassoside

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Glycerin

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water 20.55%, Centella Asiatica Extract 15%, Houttuynia Cordata Extract 14.25%, Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Niacinamide, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Methicone, Polysilicone-15, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Velvet Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Atractylodes Lancea Root Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Stearate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Polyether-1, Madecassoside, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Glycerin, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Synthetic Wax

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Caprylyl Trimethicone

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Silica

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Boron Nitride

Microcrystalline Wax

Vinyldimethicone

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Amber Powder

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Panthenol

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Morinda Citrifolia Extract

Vigna Radiata Seed Extract

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Synthetic Wax, Dibutyl Adipate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Boron Nitride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Microcrystalline Wax, Polysilicone-15, Vinyldimethicone, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Amber Powder, Water, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

This ingredient is better known as bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S and is one of the best broad-spectrum UV filters in modern sunscreen.

It works by absorbing UV light across a whole range (280-400 nm) with peaks around 310 nm (UVB) and 340-345 nm (UVA). This means it covers UVB plus the deeper UVA wavelengths that drive photoaging and pigmentation.

Another pro?

It's exceptionally photostable, barely degrades in sunlight, and acts as a "bodyguard" for less stable filters.

That's why you'll see it paired with avobenzone or octinoxate; this team up ensures they keep working through sun exposure.

Safety reviews have been reassuring across the board. This ingredient shows low absorption through the skin, rarely irritates, and lab studies found it doesn't act like a hormone in the body (a concern that's been raised about some older sunscreen filters).

On maximum concentrations:

In 2026, the US F.D.A finally added it as an OTC sunscreen ingredient at concentrations up to 6% for adults / children 6 months and older

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.

According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.

Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.

Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.

Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.

This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).

Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract is also known as Ivy Gourd Fruit Extract. It has skin conditioning properties.

The fruit is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenoids, and sterols that show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect in vitro. This is because the fruit contains a thick mucilage that forms a protective and soothing layer on the skin's surface.

The extract itself has demonstrated antioxidant, soothing, and potential anti-allergy properties.

Most of this research is done in vitro and dedicated clinical studies on topical application are still limited.

Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.

You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.

This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.

In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.

Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.

This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.

Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.

It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.

Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.

In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.

Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.

This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.

Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.

A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.

Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).

Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Polysilicone-15 (trade name: Parsol SLX) is a silicone-based UVB filter that soaks up UVB light (~280-320nm) with a peak around 310nm.

It's a fairly modest sunscreen filter so formulators mostly use it as an SPF booster and "light stabilizer". This just means it helps keep other light-sensitive ingredients from breaking down in sunlight.

A 2007 study measured the in-vitro SPF of 18 filters and found Polysilicone-15 contributed an SPF of about 3.64 at its maximum legal concentration (though worth noting its maker points out that in-vitro tests tend to underestimate its real performance because of its large polymeric structure).

Usage levels vary; it's approved up to 10% as a UV filter in the EU, China, Japan, Australia, ASEAN, and Mercosur countries. In the US, it's only permitted up to 1% as a light stabilizer because the FDA hasn't reviewed it as a sunscreen active.

Typical use levels range from 1-3%.

The EU's scientific committee concluded that this ingredient is safe for use as a UV absorber up to 10%, and tests came back negative for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.

There is one case of allergic lip inflammation from a lip balm with this ingredient, though this is rare.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  4. 04Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  5. 05It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  6. 06Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  7. 07A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  8. 08Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
  9. 09Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
  10. 10This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
  11. 11A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
  12. 12Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
  13. 13Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
  14. 14Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
  15. 15Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
  16. 16Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
  17. 17It plays several roles in a formula:
  18. 18Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
  19. 19Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
  20. 20However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

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