Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Active Soothing Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Repair Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin

Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Active Soothing Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Repair Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to calm redness and balance excess oil. This calming serum is formulated aro

Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Active Soothing Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Repair Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin

This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to calm redness and balance excess oil.

This calming serum is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Snail Secretion Filtrate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Panthenol

Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Propanediol

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Tromethamine

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Betaine

Pantothenic Acid

Trehalose

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Oleate

Sodium Phytate

Allantoin

Alpha-Arbutin

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Lauryl Glucoside

Myristyl Glucoside

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

Zinc PCA

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citric Acid

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Beta-Glucan

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Decyl Glucoside

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Beta-Sitosterol

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract

Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Tromethamine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Betaine, Pantothenic Acid, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Oleate, Sodium Phytate, Allantoin, Alpha-Arbutin, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Lauryl Glucoside, Myristyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Zinc PCA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Beta-Glucan, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Decyl Glucoside, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Beta-Sitosterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Water

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Ganoderma Lucidum Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Malt Extract

Sodium Polyacrylate

Adenosine

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Disodium EDTA

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Water, Water, Butylene Glycol, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Trehalose, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Malt Extract, Sodium Polyacrylate, Adenosine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.

Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Dipropylene Glycol
  4. 04Propanediol
  5. 05Centella Asiatica Extract
  6. 06Butylene Glycol
  7. 07Niacinamide
  8. 081,2-Hexanediol
  9. 09Sodium Hyaluronate
  10. 10Panthenol
  11. 11Madecassoside
  12. 12Asiaticoside
  13. 13Madecassic Acid
  14. 14Asiatic Acid
  15. 15Allantoin
  16. 16Centella Asiatica Callus Extracellular Vesicles
  17. 17Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
  18. 18Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
  19. 19Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
  20. 20Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side