Skin science article
Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Hyaluronic Active Clear Mask Versus COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin Discoloration Care Hydrogel Mask
Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Hyaluronic Active Clear Mask Versus COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin Discoloration Care Hydrogel Mask This acne sheet mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to clear breakouts and calm redness. This brightening sheet mask is fo
Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Hyaluronic Active Clear Mask Versus COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin Discoloration Care Hydrogel Mask
This acne sheet mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to clear breakouts and calm redness.
This brightening sheet mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
Niacinamide
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Betaine
Panthenol
Allantoin
Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract
Carbomer
Trehalose
Tromethamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan Gum
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Sodium Phytate
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Propanediol
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Pantothenic Acid
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Glyceryl Oleate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Lauryl Glucoside
Myristyl Glucoside
Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate
Beta-Glucan
Tocopherol
Decyl Glucoside
Alpha-Arbutin
Hyaluronic Acid
Zinc PCA
Citric Acid
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Beta-Sitosterol
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Asiaticoside
Madecassoside
Asiatic Acid
Madecassic Acid
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract
Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
Water, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Betaine, Panthenol, Allantoin, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Carbomer, Trehalose, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Phytate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Propanediol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Pantothenic Acid, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Glyceryl Oleate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lauryl Glucoside, Myristyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Decyl Glucoside, Alpha-Arbutin, Hyaluronic Acid, Zinc PCA, Citric Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Beta-Sitosterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
Acrylates Copolymer
Ceratonia Siliqua Gum
Chondrus Crispus
Agar
Sclerotium Gum
Potassium Chloride
Erythritol
Sucrose
Cellulose Gum
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Acetyl Glucosamine
Adenosine
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Cetearyl Alcohol
Stearic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Ferulic Acid
Ceramide NP
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Ceramide Ns
Cholesterol
Phytosphingosine
Ceramide AP
Ceramide As
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Glutathione
Ceramide EOP
Water, Glycerin, Acrylates Copolymer, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Chondrus Crispus, Agar, Betaine, Sclerotium Gum, Potassium Chloride, Alpha-Arbutin, Erythritol, Sucrose, Cellulose Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Panthenol, Allantoin, Acetyl Glucosamine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Phytate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Ferulic Acid, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide Ns, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide AP, Ceramide As, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Glutathione, Ceramide EOP
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Alpha-Arbutin is a brightening active used to fade dark spots, melasma, and post-acne marks. Structurally, it is a hydroquinone with a sugar molecule attached (but is much gentler than raw hydroquinone).
It has a pretty elegant way of working; it slots into tyrosinase, or the key enzyme that your skin uses to make melanin), and competitively blocks it so your skin produces less pigment over time.
There are two forms of arbutin and alpha is the better one to reach for: it works at lower amounts, absorbs into skin more easily, and has a strong safety record.
The science backs this up too: lab and animal studies confirm it lowers melanin by blocking tyosinase and the more you use (up to a point), the more it works.
Human studies look good too.
A 2024 trial found a cream with 5% alpha-arbutin and 2% kojic acid worked about as well as a prescription melasma cream but with fewer side effects. Another study showed 2% alpha-arbutin paired with 10% Trihydroxybenzoic Acid Glucoside and sunscreen faded dark spots and melasma without causing irritation.
Concentration-wise, most serums land in the 1-2% range.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe in face creams up to 2% and body lotions up to 0.5%.
Overall, this is a well-studied and low-irritation brightener that's a great pick for anyone dealing with uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide, and sunscreen.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.