Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Hyaluronic Active Clear Mask Versus COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin Discoloration Care Hydrogel Mask

Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Hyaluronic Active Clear Mask Versus COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin Discoloration Care Hydrogel Mask This acne sheet mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to clear breakouts and calm redness. This brightening sheet mask is fo

Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Hyaluronic Active Clear Mask Versus COSRX The Alpha-Arbutin Discoloration Care Hydrogel Mask

This acne sheet mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to clear breakouts and calm redness.

This brightening sheet mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Niacinamide

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Betaine

Panthenol

Allantoin

Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract

Carbomer

Trehalose

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Phytate

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Propanediol

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Pantothenic Acid

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Glyceryl Oleate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Lauryl Glucoside

Myristyl Glucoside

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

Beta-Glucan

Tocopherol

Decyl Glucoside

Alpha-Arbutin

Hyaluronic Acid

Zinc PCA

Citric Acid

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Beta-Sitosterol

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Asiaticoside

Madecassoside

Asiatic Acid

Madecassic Acid

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract

Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Water, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Betaine, Panthenol, Allantoin, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Carbomer, Trehalose, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Phytate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Propanediol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Pantothenic Acid, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Glyceryl Oleate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lauryl Glucoside, Myristyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Decyl Glucoside, Alpha-Arbutin, Hyaluronic Acid, Zinc PCA, Citric Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Beta-Sitosterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Acrylates Copolymer

Ceratonia Siliqua Gum

Chondrus Crispus

Agar

Sclerotium Gum

Potassium Chloride

Erythritol

Sucrose

Cellulose Gum

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Acetyl Glucosamine

Adenosine

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Cetearyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Ferulic Acid

Ceramide NP

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Ceramide Ns

Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine

Ceramide AP

Ceramide As

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Glutathione

Ceramide EOP

Water, Glycerin, Acrylates Copolymer, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Chondrus Crispus, Agar, Betaine, Sclerotium Gum, Potassium Chloride, Alpha-Arbutin, Erythritol, Sucrose, Cellulose Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Panthenol, Allantoin, Acetyl Glucosamine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Phytate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Ferulic Acid, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide Ns, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide AP, Ceramide As, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Glutathione, Ceramide EOP

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Alpha-Arbutin is a brightening active used to fade dark spots, melasma, and post-acne marks. Structurally, it is a hydroquinone with a sugar molecule attached (but is much gentler than raw hydroquinone).

It has a pretty elegant way of working; it slots into tyrosinase, or the key enzyme that your skin uses to make melanin), and competitively blocks it so your skin produces less pigment over time.

There are two forms of arbutin and alpha is the better one to reach for: it works at lower amounts, absorbs into skin more easily, and has a strong safety record.

The science backs this up too: lab and animal studies confirm it lowers melanin by blocking tyosinase and the more you use (up to a point), the more it works.

Human studies look good too.

A 2024 trial found a cream with 5% alpha-arbutin and 2% kojic acid worked about as well as a prescription melasma cream but with fewer side effects. Another study showed 2% alpha-arbutin paired with 10% Trihydroxybenzoic Acid Glucoside and sunscreen faded dark spots and melasma without causing irritation.

Concentration-wise, most serums land in the 1-2% range.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe in face creams up to 2% and body lotions up to 0.5%.

Overall, this is a well-studied and low-irritation brightener that's a great pick for anyone dealing with uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide, and sunscreen.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  2. 02So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  3. 03You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
  4. 04Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  5. 05Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  6. 06Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  7. 07Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  8. 08This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  9. 09Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  10. 10Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  11. 11Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
  12. 12And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
  13. 13You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
  14. 14In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
  15. 15If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
  16. 16When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
  17. 17When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
  18. 18In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
  19. 19Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger l…
  20. 20Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Avajar Red Collagen Hydrogel Mask

Avajar Red Collagen Hydrogel Mask Avajar Red Collagen Hydrogel Mask ingredients explained: Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acryla…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

Avajar Red Collagen Hydrogel Mask

Avajar Red Collagen Hydrogel Mask Ingredients in Avajar Red Collagen Hydrogel Mask explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 67 ingredients including Water, Dipropylene Glycol…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →

Product

NeoGenesis Beta Hydrogel Mask

NeoGenesis Beta Hydrogel Mask NeoGenesis Beta Hydrogel Mask ingredients explained: Water, Beta-Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Glucomannan, Chondrus Crispus Powder, PEG-60 H…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side