Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP

Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP

This anti-aging toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Niacinamide

PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Tripropylene Glycol

Glyceryl Glucoside

Xylitylglucoside

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Anhydroxylitol

Glycerin

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

C20-40 Pareth-10

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xylitol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium DNA

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glucose

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Ceramide NP

Sodium Phytate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Citric Acid

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sodium Citrate

Phytosterols

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

T-Butyl Alcohol

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Cyanocobalamin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Butylene Glycol

Adenosine Triphosphate

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Resveratrol

Pullulan

Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate

Palmitic Acid

C12-14 Alketh-12

Pisum Sativum Peptide

Stearic Acid

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

Caprylyl Glycol

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Dextran

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Soluble Collagen

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Disodium EDTA

Myristic Acid

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Mannose

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Arachidic Acid

Collagen

Elastin

Glutathione

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Acetyl Sh-Pentapeptide-1

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Dipeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-12

Lauric Acid

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Nonapeptide-7

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-26

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23

Octapeptide-2

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Pentapeptide-13

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1)

Tetrapeptide-44

Tetrapeptide-30

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Tripeptide-32

Tripeptide-29

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Sh-Polypeptide-16

Sh-Polypeptide-62

Water, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tripropylene Glycol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Anhydroxylitol, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, C20-40 Pareth-10, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xylitol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium DNA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glucose, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Sodium Phytate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Citrate, Phytosterols, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, T-Butyl Alcohol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Butylene Glycol, Adenosine Triphosphate, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Resveratrol, Pullulan, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Palmitic Acid, C12-14 Alketh-12, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Dextran, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Soluble Collagen, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Disodium EDTA, Myristic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Mannose, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Arachidic Acid, Collagen, Elastin, Glutathione, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Sh-Pentapeptide-1, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-12, Lauric Acid, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-7, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-26, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23, Octapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pentapeptide-13, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1), Tetrapeptide-44, Tetrapeptide-30, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-32, Tripeptide-29, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-62

Dimethicone

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Undecane

Arginine

Inulin

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Ceteareth-20

Tridecane

Tocopherol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panthenol

Tetrapeptide-21

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Glyceryl Linoleate

Pentapeptide-18

Oligopeptide-1

Sucrose Palmitate

Cetyl Palmitate

Phenoxyethanol

Carbomer

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol

Polysorbate 80

Sorbitan Stearate

Polysorbate 20

Carnosine

Sodium Metabisulfite

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Sodium Benzoate

Pantolactone

Xanthan Gum

Potassium Sorbate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Phenylpropanol

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, Undecane, Arginine, Inulin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Ceteareth-20, Tridecane, Tocopherol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pullulan, Tetrapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Oligopeptide-1, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Sucrose Palmitate, Cetyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pantolactone, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, T-Butyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide is a peptide.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10 is a peptide.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

This synthetic, signal peptide has unique skin conditioning properties in that is a matrikine-mimetic compound.

First of all, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a signal peptide; signal peptides tell the body to create more collagen.

What is a matrikine-mimetic compound?

This peptide has the ability to mimic matrikines in skin. Our skin created matrikines by breaking down matrix proteins into peptides.

Matrikines play a role in:

Though further research is needed, this ingredient seems pretty promising. In one study, women over the age of 40 with visible photoaging used a vitamin C serum with this ingredient for 56 days (15% ascorbid acid, 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38). The results found improvement in skin roughness and skin tone.

This peptide is also part of the famous Matrixyl synthe’6, a blend of ingredients that also includes glycerin, water, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.

It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.

One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.

This ingredient is also known as Sepimax Zen.

Pullulan is a low viscosity polysaccharide (a long chain carbohydrate) with binding and film forming properties when dissolved in water. It is used to create a "silicone-like" or silky feel in cosmetics without adding viscosity.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's ability to easily dissolves makes it a great carrier for active ingredients.

Due to it being edible and tasteless, you'll likely find this ingredient in breath freshener strips. This ingredient is produced from the starch of the fungus, Aureobasidium pullulans.

Pullulan is stable over a broad-range of pH.

T-Butyl Alcohol (aka tert-butanol) is a small, clear, camphor-smelling alcohol.

It has two main jobs:

On the safety side, it's well-studied and has a solid track record. Human repeat-insult patch testing showed no skin irritation or sensitization even at 100%.

Typical use levels are pretty tiny, usually less than 1%.

You might see some fear-mongering around this ingredient:

Studies in male rats showed kidney effects but that's because of a rat-specific protein that humans don't make. So this study isn't really relevant to humans.

Though it's not a typical fragrance like parfum, it does have a natural scent. That's why the official COSIng database lists it as 'perfuming' ingredient. It can be used to modify the scent of a formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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