Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ Retinol Volumetox Eye Cream Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream

Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ Retinol Volumetox Eye Cream Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Propanediol

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Niacinamide

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Methylpropanediol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate

Polysorbate 60

Cyclopentasiloxane

1,2-Hexanediol

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Glycereth-26

Glyceryl Stearate

Dimethicone

PEG-100 Stearate

Cyclohexasiloxane

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sorbitan Stearate

Behenic Acid

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polyacrylate-13

Vinyldimethicone

Batyl Alcohol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Phytosteryl Isostearate

Polyisobutene

Ceramide NP

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Citric Acid

Retinol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Adenosine

Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract

Hydrolyzed Malt Extract

Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Polysorbate 20

Disodium EDTA

Sorbitan Isostearate

Dextrin

Cholesterol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Chitosan

Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Resveratrol

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Dipeptide-2

Dipeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-12

Hexapeptide-9

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35

Nonapeptide-1

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-16

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Sh-Polypeptide-62

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1)

Tetrapeptide-30

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Tripeptide-29

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Methylpropanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Polysorbate 60, Cyclopentasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glycereth-26, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sorbitan Stearate, Behenic Acid, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyacrylate-13, Vinyldimethicone, Batyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phytosteryl Isostearate, Polyisobutene, Ceramide NP, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Retinol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Hydrolyzed Malt Extract, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Dextrin, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Chitosan, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Resveratrol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Dipeptide-2, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-12, Hexapeptide-9, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35, Nonapeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-62, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1), Tetrapeptide-30, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-29

Tribehenin

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Squalane

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Caprylyl Glycol

Bakuchiol

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Rosa Canina Seed Oil

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract

Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem Extract

Calanthe Discolor Extract

Lilium Candidum Flower Extract

Ubiquinone

Superoxide Dismutase

Ergothioneine

Tocopheryl Acetate

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Biotin

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Methylglucoside Phosphate

Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

Chrysin

Gluconolactone

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Calcium Gluconate

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Isohexadecane

Pentylene Glycol

Polysorbate 80

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbitan Oleate

Steareth-20

Xanthan Gum

Benzyl Alcohol

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Tribehenin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Squalane, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Bakuchiol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ceramide NP, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract, Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem Extract, Calanthe Discolor Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract, Ubiquinone, Superoxide Dismutase, Ergothioneine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Biotin, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Chrysin, Gluconolactone, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Calcium Gluconate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Steareth-20, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dipeptide-2 is a peptide. It can help to reduce the effects of aging.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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