Nutribiotic Peptide Face Cream Versus Jan Marini Hyla3D™ Face Cream

Nutribiotic Peptide Face Cream Versus Jan Marini Hyla3D™ Face Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Glycerin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Cyclopentasiloxane

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Glyceryl Stearate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Stearic Acid

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Myristyl Myristate

Cetyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Parfum

Carbomer

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Panthenol

Retinyl Palmitate

Allantoin

Citrus Paradisi Seed Extract

Tocopherol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Squalane

Lecithin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Water, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Cyclopentasiloxane, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Glyceryl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Stearic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Myristyl Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum, Carbomer, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Panthenol, Retinyl Palmitate, Allantoin, Citrus Paradisi Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Squalane, Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Cetyl Ricinoleate

Hexyl Laurate

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

PEG-100 Stearate

Polysorbate 20

Palmitic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Oligopeptide-24

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Sodium Lactate

Sodium PCA

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Anacyclus Pyrethrum Root Extract

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tocotrienols

Glycine Soja Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Oleate

Cetyl Esters

Potassium Phosphate

Alcohol

Retinyl Palmitate/Carrot Polypeptide

Sorbitan Stearate

Triethanolamine

Diethanolamine

Linalool

Geraniol

Benzyl Salicylate

Eugenol

Amyl Cinnamal

Maltodextrin

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sucrose

Sodium Ascorbate

Silica

Ascorbic Acid

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Myristic Acid

Hexylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Disodium EDTA

CI 40800

Water, Glycerin, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Hexyl Laurate, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Oligopeptide-24, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Anacyclus Pyrethrum Root Extract, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Oleate, Cetyl Esters, Potassium Phosphate, Alcohol, Lecithin, Stearic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate/Carrot Polypeptide, Sorbitan Stearate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine, Parfum, Linalool, Geraniol, Benzyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Amyl Cinnamal, Maltodextrin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sucrose, Sodium Ascorbate, Silica, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Myristic Acid, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Benzyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 40800

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is the filtered, stabilized liquid pressed from the inner gel of the aloe vera leaf.

In cosmetics, it shows up as either soothing active or a water-replacement base. It is roughly 98-99% water and the last 1-2% is an interesting mix of polysaccharides, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.

The polysaccharides do most of the work: they bind water at the skin surface for a light, non-greasy hydration boost. And one of the polysaccharides, glycomannan, is linked to fibroblast stimulation + collagen synthesis. This is also why aloe has such a long track record in wound and burn healing.

This ingredient is also calming with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity, making it a great pick for sensitive, irritated, or post-sun skin.

Realistic expectations matter though; the solid evidence is mostly limited to hydration, soothing, and wound support. Deeper claims about anti-aging or sun protection are not well backed, and science reviews note it does not prevent radiation-induced skin injury.

Because it plays well with almost everything, it's commonly used as a base alongside other actives like niacinamide or vitamin C.

Typical usage concentrations range from 0.5% (where hydration benefits already show up) all the way to 90%+ (where it replaces water as the main base).

The safety for this ingredient is well-establish as well. Overall, this is a great supporting ingredient for those who want a boost in hydration.

Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.

This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.

As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.

The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.

This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.

It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.

Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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