Nuuha Beauty 7X Peptide Ultimate Glass Skin Moisturiser Versus Always Be Pure Ultra Calming Cream

Nuuha Beauty 7X Peptide Ultimate Glass Skin Moisturiser Versus Always Be Pure Ultra Calming Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Dimethicone

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Panthenol

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

1,2-Hexanediol

Triethylhexanoin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Disodium EDTA

Isostearic Acid

Sucrose Stearate

PEG-8

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Squalane

Propanediol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Arginine

Pentylene Glycol

Carbomer

Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract

Allantoin

Trehalose

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Octyldodecanol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Disodium EDTA, Isostearic Acid, Sucrose Stearate, PEG-8, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Arginine, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Trehalose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Niacinamide

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Xanthan Gum

Adenosine

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Polysorbate 20

Dipropylene Glycol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Amber Powder

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Erythritol

Bisabolol

Madecassoside

Polyquaternium-51

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Asiaticoside

Hizikia Fusiforme Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Codium Fragile Extract

Ulva Lactuca Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Laminaria Cloustoni Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract

Mentha Viridis Leaf Extract

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylate-13, Carbomer, Arginine, Polyisobutene, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Amber Powder, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Erythritol, Bisabolol, Madecassoside, Polyquaternium-51, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Asiaticoside, Hizikia Fusiforme Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Codium Fragile Extract, Ulva Lactuca Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Laminaria Cloustoni Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis Leaf Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:

Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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