Skin science article
Obagi Daily Hydro-Drops Facial Serum Versus Allies of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum
Obagi Daily Hydro-Drops Facial Serum Versus Allies of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This brightening
Obagi Daily Hydro-Drops Facial Serum Versus Allies of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Tranexamic Acid and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Isononyl Isononanoate
Butylene Glycol
Betaine
Niacinamide
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Pentylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Parfum
Carbomer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Seed Oil
Octocrylene
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Cellulose Gum
Homosalate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Amodimethicone
CI 40800
CI 61565
CI 60725
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Betaine, Niacinamide, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Parfum, Carbomer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Seed Oil, Octocrylene, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Cellulose Gum, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Amodimethicone, CI 40800, CI 61565, CI 60725
C13-15 Alkane
Tranexamic Acid
Alpha-Arbutin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Hydrolyzed Pea
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Pancratium Maritimum Extract
Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Lentinus Edodes Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Diacetyl Boldine
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Lactobacillus
Bisabolol
Panthenol
Glucose
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate
C14-22 Alcohols
Xanthan Gum
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sorbitan Caprylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Succinate
Sorbic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C13-15 Alkane, Tranexamic Acid, Glycerin, Alpha-Arbutin, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Hydrolyzed Pea, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Diacetyl Boldine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lactobacillus, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Glucose, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate, C14-22 Alcohols, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sorbitan Caprylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Propanediol, Carbomer, Sodium Phytate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Succinate, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!