Skin science article
Olaplex No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo
Olaplex No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Cetearyl Alcohol PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Cetyl Alcoh
Olaplex No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetyl Alcohol
Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate
Quaternium-91
Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Cetrimonium Chloride
Glycerin
Isododecane
Cetyl Esters
Behentrimonium Chloride
Panthenol
Parfum
Phenoxyethanol
Phospholipids
Hydroxypropyl Guar
Dimethicone PEG-7 Isostearate
Glycine Soja Oil
PEG-7 Amodimethicone
PEG-45m
Amodimethicone
Disodium EDTA
Polysilicone-15
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
C11-15 Pareth-7
Sodium Polyacrylate
C12-13 Pareth-3
C12-13 Pareth-23
Vitis Vinifera
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
Laureth-9
Trideceth-12
Butylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Ahnfeltiopsis Concinna Extract
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Acetic Acid
Sodium Acetate
Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate
Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate
Pseudozyma Epicola/Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Ferment Filtrate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Quaternium-95
Propanediol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
PEG-8
Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate
Punica Granatum Extract
Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
PEG-8/Smdi Copolymer
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Palmitoyl Myristyl Serinate
BHT
Silica
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Tocopherol
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Biotin
Citral
Hexyl Cinnamal
Limonene
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Chlorphenesin
Propylene Glycol
Sodium Dehydroacetate
PEG-4 Laurate
PEG-4 Dilaurate
PEG-4
Etidronic Acid
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate, Quaternium-91, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Cetrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Isododecane, Cetyl Esters, Behentrimonium Chloride, Panthenol, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Phospholipids, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Dimethicone PEG-7 Isostearate, Glycine Soja Oil, PEG-7 Amodimethicone, PEG-45m, Amodimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Polysilicone-15, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, C11-15 Pareth-7, Sodium Polyacrylate, C12-13 Pareth-3, C12-13 Pareth-23, Vitis Vinifera, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Laureth-9, Trideceth-12, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Ahnfeltiopsis Concinna Extract, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Acetic Acid, Sodium Acetate, Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate, Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, Pseudozyma Epicola/Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Quaternium-95, Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, PEG-8, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, Punica Granatum Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract, PEG-8/Smdi Copolymer, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Myristyl Serinate, BHT, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Biotin, Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Chlorphenesin, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, PEG-4 Laurate, PEG-4 Dilaurate, PEG-4, Etidronic Acid
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Sh-Oligopeptide-78
Sodium Phytate
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Benzoic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sh-Oligopeptide-78, Panthenol, Glycerin, Sodium Phytate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Limonene
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!