Skin science article
Olay Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24 Moisturizer (Fragrance Free) Versus Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Olay Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24 Moisturizer (Fragrance Free) Versus Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkl
Olay Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24 Moisturizer (Fragrance Free) Versus Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Isohexadecane
Dimethicone
Isopropyl Isostearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Polyacrylamide
Panthenol
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Tapioca Starch
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Caprylyl Glycol
Dimethiconol
Laureth-7
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Cetyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Disodium EDTA
PEG-100 Stearate
Titanium Dioxide
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
1,2-Hexanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Isostearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Tapioca Starch, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethiconol, Laureth-7, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, PEG-100 Stearate, Titanium Dioxide, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Polysorbate 20
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Polysilicone-11
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Algae Extract
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Acetyl Glucosamine
Caffeine
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Lactic Acid
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Saccharide Isomerate
Methyl Gluceth-20
Ethylhexylglycerin
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Squalane
Sodium PCA
Urea
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Whey Protein
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Polysorbate 80
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Triolein
Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Linoleic Acid
Trehalose
Glycine Soja Protein
Glucosamine Hcl
Phospholipids
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Ergothioneine
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
PEG-8
Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Pentylene Glycol
Oleic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Silica
Calcium Chloride
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Mica
CI 77891
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polysorbate 20, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Algae Extract, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caffeine, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Saccharide Isomerate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Caprylyl Glycol, Isohexadecane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Whey Protein, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Triolein, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Linoleic Acid, Trehalose, Glycine Soja Protein, Glucosamine Hcl, Phospholipids, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ergothioneine, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, PEG-8, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Pentylene Glycol, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Silica, Calcium Chloride, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!