Skin science article
Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 + Peptide Night Moisturizer Versus Missha Time Revolution Primestem100 Cream
Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 + Peptide Night Moisturizer Versus Missha Time Revolution Primestem100 Cream This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging night
Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 + Peptide Night Moisturizer Versus Missha Time Revolution Primestem100 Cream
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Tapioca Starch
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Retinol
Retinyl Propionate
Niacinamide
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Polyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
DMDM Hydantoin
Polysorbate 20
Laureth-4
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Laureth-7
Dimethiconol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Aminomethyl Propanol
Titanium Dioxide
Disodium EDTA
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Tapioca Starch, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Retinol, Retinyl Propionate, Niacinamide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, DMDM Hydantoin, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-4, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Laureth-7, Dimethiconol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Aminomethyl Propanol, Titanium Dioxide, Disodium EDTA, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Squalane
Dicaprylyl Ether
Cyclohexasiloxane
Diisostearyl Malate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Pentylene Glycol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dipropylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
1,2-Hexanediol
Synthetic Beeswax
Glyceryl Stearate Se
C12-16 Alcohols
Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water
Panthenol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Palmitic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetearyl Glucoside
Glucose
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Parfum
Butylene Glycol
Carbomer
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Tromethamine
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Angelica Archangelica Callus Extract
Fructooligosaccharides
Fructose
Xanthan Gum
Polyisobutene
Ethylhexylglycerin
Octanediol
Adenosine
Sodium Phytate
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Sorbitan Oleate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Tocopherol
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Hydroxystearic Acid
Maltodextrin
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Swertia Chirata Extract
Choleth-24
Ceramide NP
Water, Glycerin, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Squalane, Dicaprylyl Ether, Cyclohexasiloxane, Diisostearyl Malate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, Niacinamide, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Synthetic Beeswax, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, C12-16 Alcohols, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glucose, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Parfum, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Tromethamine, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Angelica Archangelica Callus Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Xanthan Gum, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Octanediol, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydroxystearic Acid, Maltodextrin, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Swertia Chirata Extract, Choleth-24, Ceramide NP
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!