Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Brightening Serum Versus Garnier Bright Complete Vitamin C Booster Serum

Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Brightening Serum Versus Garnier Bright Complete Vitamin C Booster Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture. This brightening serum is formul

Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Brightening Serum Versus Garnier Bright Complete Vitamin C Booster Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Niacinamide

Lactic Acid

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Panthenol

Trehalose

PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

Hydroxylauric Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Avena Sativa Peptide

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Panthenol, Trehalose, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Hydroxylauric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Avena Sativa Peptide

Alcohol

Dipropylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Isononyl Isononanoate

BHT

Linalool

Geraniol

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phenoxyethanol

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

Adenosine

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Disodium EDTA

Limonene

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Citric Acid

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Citrus Junos Fruit Extract

Xanthan Gum

Maltodextrin

Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine

Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzyl Alcohol

Water, Glycerin, Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Isononyl Isononanoate, BHT, Linalool, Geraniol, Parfum, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Adenosine, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Limonene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citric Acid, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Maltodextrin, Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Alcohol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.

Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:

In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.

The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.

A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.

Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).

Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 033-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
  4. 04Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
  5. 05In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
  6. 06The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
  7. 07A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
  8. 08Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
  9. 09Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
  10. 10Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  11. 11Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  12. 12Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  13. 13Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  14. 14This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  15. 15Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  16. 16Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  17. 17Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
  18. 18And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
  19. 19You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
  20. 20In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
Source · skinsort.com
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