Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Eye Cream Versus Tatcha The Brightening Eye Cream

Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Eye Cream Versus Tatcha The Brightening Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening eye mois

Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Eye Cream Versus Tatcha The Brightening Eye Cream

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Niacinamide

Propylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Panthenol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Dimethiconol

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Polysorbate 20

Laureth-4

Laureth-7

Disodium EDTA

Tapioca Starch

Polyacrylamide

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Aminomethyl Propanol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Phenoxyethanol

Ascorbic Acid

Avena Sativa Peptide

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dimethiconol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-4, Laureth-7, Disodium EDTA, Tapioca Starch, Polyacrylamide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbic Acid, Avena Sativa Peptide

Squalane

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil

C15-19 Alkane

Propanediol

Behenic Acid

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Behenyl Alcohol

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Glyceryl Stearate

Beheneth-20

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract

Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract

Prunus Mume Fruit Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ferulic Acid

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Bacillus Ferment

Lecithin

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Lysolecithin

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate

Xanthan Gum

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Tocopherol

Potassium Hydroxide

Phytic Acid

Silica

Tin Oxide

CI 77891

CI 77491

CI 77492

Water, Squalane, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil, Glycerin, C15-19 Alkane, Propanediol, Behenic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Stearate, Beheneth-20, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ferulic Acid, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lecithin, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Lysolecithin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate, Xanthan Gum, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopherol, Potassium Hydroxide, Phytic Acid, Silica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Tin Oxide, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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Source: skinsort.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

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