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Skin science article

Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream

Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin. This eye moisturize

Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

This eye moisturizer is formulated around Punica Granatum Seed Oil to hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Isododecane

Coconut Alkanes

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glycerin

C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate

Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Cocoyl Proline

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Ascorbic Acid

Gold

Glutathione

Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract

Citrus Paradisi Peel Extract

Glucosyl Hesperidin

Tocopherol

Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide

Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract

Morus Alba Root Extract

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Jojoba Esters

Caprylyl Glycol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Polyacrylate-13

Butylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Citrate

Polyisobutene

Beheneth-5

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Behenyl Alcohol

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbic Acid

Sorbitan Isostearate

Citric Acid

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Stearic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Oleic Acid

Sorbitol

Silica

Sodium Benzoate

1,2-Hexanediol

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Mica

Titanium Dioxide

CI 77891

CI 77491

Water, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Isododecane, Coconut Alkanes, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Cocoyl Proline, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbic Acid, Gold, Glutathione, Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Extract, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Tocopherol, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Jojoba Esters, Caprylyl Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Polyisobutene, Beheneth-5, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sorbitol, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, CI 77891, CI 77491

Dimethicone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Benzyl Alcohol

Polysilicone-11

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Gluconate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dehydroacetic Acid

Diglucosyl Gallic Acid

Trihydroxystearin

Tin Oxide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glucomannan

Water, Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Polysilicone-11, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica, Dehydroacetic Acid, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Trihydroxystearin, Tin Oxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, CI 77891

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.

Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.

This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.

Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.

Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).

Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.

Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.

This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.

Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  4. 04The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  5. 05Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, …
  14. 14Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
  15. 15Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
  16. 16Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
  17. 17It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
  18. 18While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
  19. 19If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
  20. 20Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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