Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus Youth To The People Peptides + C Energy Eye Concentrate

Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus Youth To The People Peptides + C Energy Eye Concentrate This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus Youth To The People Peptides + C Energy Eye Concentrate

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Isododecane

Coconut Alkanes

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glycerin

C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate

Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Cocoyl Proline

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Ascorbic Acid

Gold

Glutathione

Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract

Citrus Paradisi Peel Extract

Glucosyl Hesperidin

Tocopherol

Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide

Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract

Morus Alba Root Extract

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Jojoba Esters

Caprylyl Glycol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Polyacrylate-13

Butylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Citrate

Polyisobutene

Beheneth-5

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Behenyl Alcohol

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbic Acid

Sorbitan Isostearate

Citric Acid

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Stearic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Oleic Acid

Sorbitol

Silica

Sodium Benzoate

1,2-Hexanediol

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Mica

Titanium Dioxide

CI 77891

CI 77491

Water, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Isododecane, Coconut Alkanes, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Cocoyl Proline, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbic Acid, Gold, Glutathione, Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Extract, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Tocopherol, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Jojoba Esters, Caprylyl Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Polyisobutene, Beheneth-5, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sorbitol, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, CI 77891, CI 77491

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Citrus Junos Seed Oil

Panthenol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Hylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract

Ilex Guayusa Leaf Extract

Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract

Jania Rubens Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Maltodextrin

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Momordica Cochinchinensis Seed Extract

Punica Granatum Seed Extract

Sodium Carrageenan

Adenosine

Biotin

Caffeine

Chrysin

Dipeptide-2

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Hydroxyacetophenone

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Sodium Hyaluronate

Niacinamide

Alcohol

Cellulose

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Lecithin

Sodium Acetate

Steareth-20

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Tin Oxide

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Glycerin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Citrus Junos Seed Oil, Panthenol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Hylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract, Ilex Guayusa Leaf Extract, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Maltodextrin, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Momordica Cochinchinensis Seed Extract, Punica Granatum Seed Extract, Sodium Carrageenan, Adenosine, Biotin, Caffeine, Caprylyl Glycol, Chrysin, Dipeptide-2, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Hydroxyacetophenone, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Alcohol, Cellulose, CI 77891, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Sodium Acetate, Sodium Citrate, Steareth-20, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide, Xanthan Gum, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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