Olehenriksen Truth Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster

Olehenriksen Truth Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster

This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Oleth-20

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Citric Acid

Parfum

PEG-12 Dimethicone

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aroma

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Disodium Phosphate

Polysorbate 60

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Thioctic Acid

Calcium Ascorbate

Sodium Phosphate

Sorbitol

Citrus Grandis Seed Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Ascorbic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Euphrasia Officinalis Extract

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Potassium Sorbate

Triacetin

Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate

Benzyl Benzoate

Limonene

Linalool

CI 15985

Water, Glycerin, Oleth-20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Parfum, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aroma, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Thioctic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Sodium Phosphate, Sorbitol, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Potassium Sorbate, Triacetin, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Linalool, CI 15985

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Dimethicone

Propanediol

Ceramide AP

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Glucoside

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Tridecapeptide-1

Polyglucuronic Acid

C9-12 Alkane

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract

Bacillus Ferment

Lecithin

Sodium Phytate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Magnesium Chloride

Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Tridecapeptide-1, Polyglucuronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, C9-12 Alkane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hexylene Glycol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.

It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.

As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.

Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.

This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.

A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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