Skin science article
#OOTD (oxygen of the day) Peptide Skin Barrier Cream Versus Lacura Multi-Peptide Moisturiser
#OOTD (oxygen of the day) Peptide Skin Barrier Cream Versus Lacura Multi-Peptide Moisturiser This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging moistu
#OOTD (oxygen of the day) Peptide Skin Barrier Cream Versus Lacura Multi-Peptide Moisturiser
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Sh-Polypeptide-11 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butylene Glycol
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Niacinamide
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
1,2-Hexanediol
Sorbitan Olivate
Glyceryl Stearate
Isononyl Isononanoate
Stearyl Alcohol
Palmitic Acid
Vinyldimethicone
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Myristyl Alcohol
Diisostearyl Malate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Betaine
Xanthan Gum
Panthenol
Squalane
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Lauryl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
Stearic Acid
Myristic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Caprylyl Glycol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Niacinamide, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Stearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Vinyldimethicone, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Myristyl Alcohol, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Betaine, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Squalane, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Lauryl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
C15-19 Alkane
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Polyacrylamide
Phenoxyethanol
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Isomalt
Sodium Hydroxide
Laureth-7
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Lecithin
Lauroyl Lysine
Acetyl Glutamine
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, C15-19 Alkane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Polyacrylamide, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), C13-14 Isoparaffin, Isomalt, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Laureth-7, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Lecithin, Lauroyl Lysine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acetyl Glutamine, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!