Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Oribe Serene Scalp Thickening Treatment Spray Versus BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair

Oribe Serene Scalp Thickening Treatment Spray Versus BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Butylene Glycol Dimethyl Isosorbide Polysorbate 20 Amp

Oribe Serene Scalp Thickening Treatment Spray Versus BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Polysorbate 20

Amp-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Niacinamide

Panthenol

Sodium PCA

Allantoin

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Mentha Piperita Oil

Glycerin

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Citric Acid

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Lactate

Dextran

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

PCA

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Glycine

Alanine

Pisum Sativum Sprout Extract

Serine

Valine

Potassium Sorbate

Arctium Majus Root Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Hedera Helix Leaf Extract

Isoleucine

Lamium Album Extract

Nasturtium Officinale Extract

Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract

Proline

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract

Threonine

Biotin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tropaeolum Majus Flower Extract

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Benzoic Acid

Chlorphenesin

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Limonene

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polysorbate 20, Amp-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Allantoin, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Mentha Piperita Oil, Glycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Lactate, Dextran, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Glycine, Alanine, Pisum Sativum Sprout Extract, Serine, Valine, Potassium Sorbate, Arctium Majus Root Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf Extract, Isoleucine, Lamium Album Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract, Proline, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Threonine, Biotin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tropaeolum Majus Flower Extract, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Benzoic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Limonene

Propanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Betaine

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caffeine

Copper Tripeptide-34

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Coffea Arabica Seed Oil

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Carbomer

Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil

Plantago Psyllium Seed Extract

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Larix Europaea Wood Extract

Tocopherol

Ubiquinone

Zinc Chloride

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Benzyl Alcohol

Caramel

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Betaine, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caffeine, Copper Tripeptide-34, Niacinamide, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Coffea Arabica Seed Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Biotin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Carbomer, Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil, Lamium Album Extract, Plantago Psyllium Seed Extract, Panthenol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Glycine, Tocopherol, Ubiquinone, Zinc Chloride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Caramel

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Biotin is a B vitamin that is naturally produced by our bodies. It is also called Vitamin H.

Our bodies use biotin in the metabolism process. It also helps our bodies use enzymes and move nutrients around. A biotin deficiency can lead to brittle hair and nails.

More research is needed on applying biotin topically. However, taking biotin orally has been shown to help nourish the skin, hair, and nails. They play a role in forming skin-hydrating fatty acids.

Biotin is water-soluble. It can be found in foods such as fish, eggs, dairy, nuts, and meat. Vitamin H stands for "haar" and "haut". These are the German words for hair and skin.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.

We don't have a description for Lamium Album Extract yet.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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Comparison edit

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