Skin science article
OSEA Collagen Dream Night Cream with Bio Retinol Versus StriVectin Hydration Multiplier Hyaluronic Acid Serum
OSEA Collagen Dream Night Cream with Bio Retinol Versus StriVectin Hydration Multiplier Hyaluronic Acid Serum This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen to soften the look of wrinkles and h
OSEA Collagen Dream Night Cream with Bio Retinol Versus StriVectin Hydration Multiplier Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glycerin
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Diheptyl Succinate
Propanediol
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Cetearyl Olivate
Squalane
Cetyl Stearate
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Sorbitan Olivate
Behenyl Alcohol
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Myristyl Myristate
Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract
Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Andrographis Paniculata Leaf Extract
Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Lavandula Hybrida Extract
Triheptanoin
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Tocopherol
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Hedera Helix Extract
Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sorbate
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Citric Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
1,2-Hexanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Phenylpropanol
Parfum
Linalool
Limonene
Citral
Geraniol
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Diheptyl Succinate, Propanediol, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Squalane, Cetyl Stearate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Behenyl Alcohol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Myristyl Myristate, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Andrographis Paniculata Leaf Extract, Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lavandula Hybrida Extract, Triheptanoin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Tocopherol, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Phenylpropanol, Parfum, Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Geraniol
Pentylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isopentyldiol
Myristyl Nicotinate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Saccharide Isomerate
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Undecane
Vegetable Oil
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate
Ceramide AP
Polyglutamic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Caprylate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Ceramide Ag
Tridecane
Ceramide Ng
Spirodela Polyrhiza Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide EOP
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Pullulan
Lecithin
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Bisabolol
C9-12 Alkane
Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer
Allantoin
Chlorphenesin
Ceramide NP
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Dipropylene Glycol
Glyceryl Stearate
Cholesterol
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Polysorbate 20
Panthenol
Sclerotium Gum
Silica
Sodium Citrate
Benzyl Salicylate
Citronellol
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Behenyl Alcohol, Isopentyldiol, Myristyl Nicotinate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Saccharide Isomerate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Glycerin, Undecane, Vegetable Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate, Ceramide AP, Polyglutamic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Ceramide Ag, Tridecane, Ceramide Ng, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Spirodela Polyrhiza Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Triheptanoin, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Pullulan, Lecithin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Bisabolol, C9-12 Alkane, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Allantoin, Chlorphenesin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Parfum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dipropylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cholesterol, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 20, Panthenol, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Geraniol, Citronellol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a chelating agent that helps cosmetics stay fresh, stable, and consistent over time.
Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted reactions and effects from using the product. It also helps prevent the growth of unwanted microbes in products that contain water.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is often used with natural antimicrobial products as an alternative to preservatives.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Helianthus Annuus Extract comes from the common sunflower.
Sunflowers are rich in vitamin E. Studies show sunflowers contain antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.
The fatty acids found in sunflowers include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.
These fatty acids hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.
This ingredient has moisturizing properties due to its components of polysaccharides and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains calcium, selenium, phosphorus, iron, and zinc.
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract contains numerous antioxidants such as ferulic acid. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.
Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.
These compounds protect your skin two ways:
1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.
Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
We don't have a description for Triheptanoin yet.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.