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Skin science article

Ouai Fine To Medium Hair Treatment Masque Versus Dove Damage Therapy Bond Strength 10 in 1 Serum Mask

Ouai Fine To Medium Hair Treatment Masque Versus Dove Damage Therapy Bond Strength 10 in 1 Serum Mask What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Cetearyl Alcohol Behentrimonium Chloride Cetyl Alcohol Stearamidopropyl Dimethy

Ouai Fine To Medium Hair Treatment Masque Versus Dove Damage Therapy Bond Strength 10 in 1 Serum Mask

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cetearyl Alcohol

Behentrimonium Chloride

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Cetyl Esters

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Amodimethicone

Isododecane

Jojoba Esters

Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Panthenol

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Cocos Nucifera Water

Phyllostachys Bambusoides Juice

Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum

Laureth-9

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Nasturtium Officinale Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract

Pisum Sativum Extract

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Arginine

Alanine

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Phenylalanine

Serine

Valine

Proline

Threonine

Aspartic Acid

Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Hydrolyzed Corn Protein

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

Ethylhexylglycerin

Propanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Parfum

Cetrimonium Chloride

Trideceth-12

C11-15 Pareth-7

Polysilicone-15

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol

Cystine Bis-Pg-Propyl Silanetriol

Sodium PCA

PCA

Diisostearyl Malate

Polysorbate 60

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Lactate

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Hydroxyethylcellulose

BHT

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Disodium EDTA

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate

Isopropyl Alcohol

Tocopherol

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Gluconolactone

Calcium Gluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Trideceth-3

Trideceth-15

Acetic Acid

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Benzoic Acid

Sorbic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Citronellol

Linalool

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Amodimethicone, Isododecane, Jojoba Esters, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Cocos Nucifera Water, Phyllostachys Bambusoides Juice, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Laureth-9, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Arginine, Alanine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Aspartic Acid, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Parfum, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-12, C11-15 Pareth-7, Polysilicone-15, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol, Cystine Bis-Pg-Propyl Silanetriol, Sodium PCA, PCA, Diisostearyl Malate, Polysorbate 60, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Lactate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, BHT, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Trideceth-3, Trideceth-15, Acetic Acid, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Linalool

Dimethiconol/Silsesquioxane Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Dipropylene Glycol

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Lactic Acid

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Citrate

Benzyl Salicylate

Hexyl Cinnamal

Limonene

CI 19140

CI 17200

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Dimethiconol/Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Dipropylene Glycol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Parfum, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Gluconate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, CI 19140, CI 17200

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is a preservative and often used for it's anti-static properties. You'll most likely see this ingredient in hair conditioners.

It does not cause irritation or sensitization in leave-on products at 1-5%.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

This ingredient is a preservative, antimicrobial, and emulsifier. It is often used in cosmetics for its ability to cleanse, condition, and reduce static.

Cetrimonium chloride is a quaternary ammonium salt, meaning it has a water-soluble structure.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03This ingredient is a preservative and often used for it's anti-static properties. You'll most likely see this ingredient in hair conditioners.
  4. 04It does not cause irritation or sensitization in leave-on products at 1-5%.
  5. 05Benzyl Salicylate is a solvent and fragrance additive. It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and salicylic acid. This ingredient can be naturally found in some plants and plant extracts.
  6. 06In fragrances, Benzyl Salicylate may be a solvent or a fragrance component. In synthetic musk scents, it is used as a solvent. For floral fragrances such as lilac and jasmine, it is used as a fragrance component. The natural scent of Benzyl Salicyla…
  7. 07While Benzyl Salicylate has been associated with contact dermatitis and allergies, emerging studies show it may not be caused by this ingredient alone.
  8. 08However, this ingredient is often used with fragrances and other components that may cause allergies. It is still listed as a known allergen in the EU. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
  9. 09Another study from 2021 shows Benzyl Salicylate may have anti-inflammatory properties.
  10. 10Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
  11. 11Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
  12. 12It plays several roles in a formula:
  13. 13Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
  14. 14Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
  15. 15However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
  16. 16Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
  17. 17Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
  18. 18Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
  19. 19This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
  20. 20A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side