Pacifica Future Youth Super Cream Versus Pacifica Dreamy Youth Super Peptide Cream

Pacifica Future Youth Super Cream Versus Pacifica Dreamy Youth Super Peptide Cream

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Glycerin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Laurate

Sh-Polypeptide-50

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Allantoin

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Fragaria Ananassa Seed Oil

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Panthenol

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Oryza Sativa Extract

Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Acetic Acid

Levulinic Acid

Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract

Sodium Levulinate

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Dextran

Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Ectoin

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

Myristyl Nicotinate

Limonene

Linalool

Parfum

Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Laurate, Sh-Polypeptide-50, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Allantoin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Fragaria Ananassa Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Panthenol, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Oryza Sativa Extract, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Acetic Acid, Levulinic Acid, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract, Sodium Levulinate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Dextran, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Ectoin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Myristyl Nicotinate, Limonene, Linalool, Parfum

Myristyl Myristate

Isopropyl Myristate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Propanediol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Betaine

Arginine

Sodium PCA

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Iris Pallida Leaf Cell Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Myristyl Myristate, Isopropyl Myristate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Betaine, Arginine, Sodium PCA, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Iris Pallida Leaf Cell Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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