Pacifica Wake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid Cream Versus Pacifica Dreamy Youth Super Peptide Cream

Pacifica Wake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid Cream Versus Pacifica Dreamy Youth Super Peptide Cream

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Glycerin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Cetyl Esters

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Melatonin

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Rose Extract

Paeonia Officinalis Flower Extract

Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Tocopherol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Sclerotium Gum

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Esters, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Melatonin, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Rose Extract, Paeonia Officinalis Flower Extract, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sclerotium Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Myristyl Myristate

Isopropyl Myristate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Propanediol

Glyceryl Stearate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Betaine

Arginine

Sodium PCA

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Iris Pallida Leaf Cell Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Myristyl Myristate, Isopropyl Myristate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Betaine, Arginine, Sodium PCA, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Iris Pallida Leaf Cell Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Rosa Damascena Flower Water is the water-based byproduct of steam-distilling damask rose petals. It has skin conditioning, masking, and skin protecting properties.

Research shows that Rosa damascena is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds like gallic acid that contribute to its antioxidant activity.

In vitro studies have shown that Rosa damascena can scavenge free radicals and reduce melanin overproduction. Research has also found this extract offers some degree of UV absorption but this should not replace your sunscreen.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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