Palmer's Cocoa Butter Firming Butter Versus Beauty of Joseon Pine Grove : Body Cream

Palmer's Cocoa Butter Firming Butter Versus Beauty of Joseon Pine Grove : Body Cream

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Paraffinum Liquidum

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Isopropyl Myristate

Propylene Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Tocopherol

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Glycerin

Camellia Oleifera Seed Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Ubiquinone

Dimethicone

Lecithin

Carnitine

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Polyimide-1

Triethanolamine

PEG-40 Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tetrasodium EDTA

Acrylates Copolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Butylene Glycol

Parfum

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Cinnamate

Water, Paraffinum Liquidum, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Isopropyl Myristate, Propylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopherol, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Glycerin, Camellia Oleifera Seed Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Lecithin, Carnitine, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Polyimide-1, Triethanolamine, PEG-40 Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Cinnamate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Octyldodecanol

Cetearyl Olivate

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Sorbitan Olivate

1,2-Hexanediol

Methyl Trimethicone

Vinyldimethicone

C12-16 Alcohols

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Propanediol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Caprylyl Glycol

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Phytate

Cellulose Gum

Juglans Nigra Leaf Extract

Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Sophora Japonica Leaf Extract

Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water

Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract

Methylpropanediol

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Bambusa Vulgaris Water

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract

Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract

Prunus Persica Flower Extract

Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Olivate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Sorbitan Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Trimethicone, Vinyldimethicone, C12-16 Alcohols, Parfum, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose Gum, Juglans Nigra Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Sophora Japonica Leaf Extract, Stearyl Alcohol, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract, Methylpropanediol, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.

In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Stearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.

Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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