Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 - Cosmetic Ingredients Guide

Authored by: Arthur Ghochikyan, M.D.

Functions

Firming

Anti-aging

Barrier enhancer

Hydrating

CAS Number(s)

171263-26-6

FDA UNII

HO4ZT5S86C

INCI name

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Identifier

CIG-446

Origin

Synthetic

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, also known as Biopeptide El™, is a conjugate of Palmitic acid and a matrikine peptide with a sequence Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, known as a fragment of the elastin. It is the most frequently repeated sequence (six times) in elastin, a "spring fragment" that boosts the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).

Palmitic acid attached to a peptide, yielding a more lipophilic structure, considerably enhances skin penetration, efficiency, and potency. It enables the potentiation or even initiation of the cosmetic activity, which requires the peptide's transport to the living tissues of the skin. In vivo studies showed that Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 permeates into the stratum corneum and epidermal layers and maintains and restores the skin barrier after delipidation (detachment of the Palmitoyl group).

Hexapeptide-12 has chemotactic properties, attracting skin fibroblasts to sites of inflammation or cicatrization and stimulating their mobility. Additional research revealed that this peptide, in particular its derivatized form, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, is endowed with unsuspected cosmetic activities, namely firming, toning, and restructuring effects on the skin of the neck and face.

In addition, the Biopeptide El™ restructuring effect enhances skin moisturization. Newer research showed that the concomitant use of the peptide and Ceramide NG in cosmetic or skin care compositions (Dermaxyl™) enhances anti-aging effects, barrier function, and hydration levels.

See also

Synonyms

Glycine, N-(1-oxohexadecyl)-L-valylglycyl-L-valyl-L-alanyl-L-prolyl-

Pal-VGVAPG

Pal-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly

Changed

2026-03-26

References

Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, a repeating peptide in elastin, is chemotactic for fibroblasts and monocytes

Author(s):

Senior RM, Griffin GL, Mecham RP, Wrenn DS, Prasad KU, Urry DW

PMID:

6547961

DOI:

10.1083/jcb.99.3.870

MMP generated matrikines

Author(s):

Wells JM, Gaggar A, Blalock JE

PMID:

25636538

DOI:

10.1016/j.matbio.2015.01.016

Noninvasive Monitoring of Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 in Human Skin Layers: Mechanical Interaction with Skin Components and Its Potential Skincare Benefits

Author(s):

Ligorio Cosimo, Tavasoli Elham, Karaman-Jurukovska Nevena, Ittycheri Abraham, Kotowska Anna M., Khan Mohammed H., Scurr David J., Gupta Shovit A., Moogan Leah V., Emmetsberger Jaime, Lu Fake, German Guy K., Mammone Tom, Mata Alvaro

DOI:

10.1021/acsabm.4c01816

Structural characterization of VGVAPG, an elastin-derived peptide

Author(s):

Floquet N, Héry-Huynh S, Dauchez M, Derreumaux P, Tamburro AM, Alix AJ

PMID:

15148686

DOI:

10.1002/bip.20029

Elastin (P15502 · ELN_HUMAN)

Author(s):

UniProtKB reviewed (Swiss-Prot)

Safety Assessment of Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-12, Their Metal Salts and Fatty Acyl Derivatives, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as Used in Cosmetics

Author(s):

Johnson Wilbur, Bergfeld Wilma F., Belsito Donald V., Hill Ronald A., Klaassen Curtis D., Liebler Daniel C., Marks James G., Shank Ronald C., Slaga Thomas J., Snyder Paul W., Gill Lillian J., Heldreth Bart

DOI:

10.1177/1091581818807863