Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Scalp Care Regeniplex Conditioner Versus BrioGeo Destined For Density Peptide Shampoo for Thicker, Fuller Hair

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Scalp Care Regeniplex Conditioner Versus BrioGeo Destined For Density Peptide Shampoo for Thicker, Fuller Hair What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Scalp Care Regeniplex Conditioner Versus BrioGeo Destined For Density Peptide Shampoo for Thicker, Fuller Hair

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Oleyl Alcohol

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Pyridoxine Hcl

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Pisum Sativum Peptide

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Dicetyldimonium Chloride

Glyceryl Stearate

Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer

Propylene Glycol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Trideceth-5

Disodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Glycerin

Myristyl Alcohol

Magnesium Nitrate

Cetrimonium Chloride

Phenoxyethanol

Methylchloroisothiazolinone

Methylisothiazolinone

CI 16035

Caramel

Parfum

Linalool

Geraniol

Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Pyridoxine Hcl, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dicetyldimonium Chloride, Glyceryl Stearate, Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Trideceth-5, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Myristyl Alcohol, Magnesium Nitrate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, CI 16035, Caramel, Parfum, Linalool, Geraniol

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

Lauramidopropyl Betaine

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Coffea Arabica Seed Oil

Copper Tripeptide-34

Biotin

Coconut Acid

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

Sodium Isethionate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Caffeine

Propanediol

Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ubiquinone

Glycine

Larix Europaea Wood Extract

Sodium Metabisulfite

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Zinc Chloride

Sodium Hydroxide

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Coffea Arabica Seed Oil, Copper Tripeptide-34, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Biotin, Coconut Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Isethionate, Citric Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caffeine, Propanediol, Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone, Glycine, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Sodium Metabisulfite, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Zinc Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.

In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.

One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.

Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.

There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.

Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.

For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.

In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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