Skin science article
Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Versus Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief
Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Versus Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots. This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Calophy
Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Versus Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief
This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Azelaic Acid
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone
Salicylic Acid
Adenosine
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Allantoin
Bisabolol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Xanthan Gum
Sclerotium Gum
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Cetearyl Olivate
Polysorbate 60
Glyceryl Oleate
Octyldodecanol
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Sorbitan Oleate
Sorbitan Olivate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Pentylene Glycol
Squalane
Urea
Sorbitan Isostearate
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Disodium EDTA
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Magnesium Chloride
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycine Soja Sterols
Lactic Acid
Glycosyl Trehalose
Acetyl Glutamine
Oleic Acid
Sodium PCA
Serine
Ceramide NP
Glycine
Water, Propanediol, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Urea, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Disodium EDTA, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Magnesium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lactic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycosyl Trehalose, Acetyl Glutamine, Oleic Acid, Sodium PCA, Serine, Ceramide NP, Glycine
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.