Skin science article
Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Versus Walgreens Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Versus Walgreens Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots. This acne moisturizer is formulated around Azelaic
Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Versus Walgreens Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
This acne moisturizer is formulated around Azelaic Acid to clear breakouts and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Azelaic Acid
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone
Salicylic Acid
Adenosine
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Allantoin
Bisabolol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Xanthan Gum
Sclerotium Gum
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Isododecane
Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Ceteareth-20
Isohexadecane
Pvp
Polysilicone-11
Chlorphenesin
Tocopherol
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Isoceteth-20
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Triethanolamine
Water, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Azelaic Acid, Isododecane, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ceteareth-20, Isohexadecane, Pvp, Phenoxyethanol, Polysilicone-11, Chlorphenesin, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Isoceteth-20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Triethanolamine
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!