Skin science article
Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum Versus AXIS - Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum
Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum Versus AXIS - Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Squalane to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits
Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum Versus AXIS - Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Squalane to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Panthenol
Niacinamide
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Myristyl Myristate
Pentylene Glycol
Glycerin
C13-15 Alkane
Squalene
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Propanediol
Saccharide Isomerate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Caprylyl Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Tocopherol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Sclerotium Gum
Lecithin
Pullulan
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Pantolactone
Sodium Phytate
Silica
Ceramide AP
1,2-Hexanediol
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Bacillus Ferment
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Myristyl Myristate, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, C13-15 Alkane, Squalene, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Propanediol, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sclerotium Gum, Lecithin, Pullulan, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Pantolactone, Sodium Phytate, Silica, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Bacillus Ferment, Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Erythritol
Butylene Glycol
Squalane
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Chlorphenesin
Arginine
Carbomer
Glutathione
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Disodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Allantoin
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propanediol, Erythritol, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Chlorphenesin, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Glutathione, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Allantoin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!