Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum Versus MAËLYS COSMETICS B-Glowy Brightening Body Serum

Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum Versus MAËLYS COSMETICS B-Glowy Brightening Body Serum

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Panthenol

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Myristyl Myristate

Pentylene Glycol

Glycerin

C13-15 Alkane

Squalene

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Propanediol

Saccharide Isomerate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Tocopherol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hexylene Glycol

Sclerotium Gum

Lecithin

Pullulan

Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract

Pantolactone

Sodium Phytate

Silica

Ceramide AP

1,2-Hexanediol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Bacillus Ferment

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Myristyl Myristate, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, C13-15 Alkane, Squalene, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Propanediol, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sclerotium Gum, Lecithin, Pullulan, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Pantolactone, Sodium Phytate, Silica, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Bacillus Ferment, Phenoxyethanol

Isononyl Isononanoate

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Carbomer

Chlorphenesin

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Sodium Hydroxide

Cellulose Gum

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Sorbitan Oleate

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Parfum

CI 77492

CI 77891

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Cellulose Gum, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Parfum, CI 77492, CI 77891

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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