Skin science article
Paula's Choice 5% Vitamin C Sheer Moisturizer SPF 50 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30
Paula's Choice 5% Vitamin C Sheer Moisturizer SPF 50 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97
Paula's Choice 5% Vitamin C Sheer Moisturizer SPF 50 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Octocrylene
Water
Glycerin
Silica
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Dimethicone
Propanediol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Acetyl Zingerone
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Sodium Hydroxide
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Laureth-4
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Titanium Dioxide
Iron Oxides
Entada Phaseoloides Bark/Seed Extract
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Water, Glycerin, Silica, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Acetyl Zingerone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Laureth-4, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Entada Phaseoloides Bark/Seed Extract
Cyclopentasiloxane
Zinc Oxide
PEG-12 Dimethicone
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Lauroyl Lysine
Sodium Chloride
Trihydroxystearin
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Resveratrol
Quercetin
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Adenosine
Bisabolol
Salix Nigra Bark Extract
Punica Granatum Extract
Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Polysorbate 80
Hydrated Silica
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Chloride, Trihydroxystearin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Resveratrol, Quercetin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Adenosine, Bisabolol, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Polysorbate 80, Hydrated Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Iron Oxides, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
This ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.