Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Advanced Sun Protection Daily Moisturiser SPF 50 PA++++ Versus Allies of Skin The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel

Paula's Choice Advanced Sun Protection Daily Moisturiser SPF 50 PA++++ Versus Allies of Skin The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV

Paula's Choice Advanced Sun Protection Daily Moisturiser SPF 50 PA++++ Versus Allies of Skin The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Undecane

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Glycerin

Isononyl Isononanoate

Propanediol

Tridecane

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Saccharomyces Ferment

Sodium Polyacrylate

Decyl Glucoside

Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether

Sodium Phytate

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Lauroyl Lysine

Propylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Tocopherol

Naringenin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Undecane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Tridecane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Saccharomyces Ferment, Sodium Polyacrylate, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether, Sodium Phytate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Lauroyl Lysine, Propylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Naringenin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Extract

Niacinamide

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Isododecane

Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tridecyl Salicylate

Camellia Sinensis Extract

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Extract

Helianthus Annuus Flower

Punica Granatum Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Homosalate

Octocrylene

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Extract, Niacinamide, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Isododecane, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tridecyl Salicylate, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Extract, Helianthus Annuus Flower, Punica Granatum Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.

It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.

You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.

The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.

Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.

The fatty-alcohol part of the molecule also gives it a light, emollient feel so it doubles as a nice texture enhancer.

Usage levels vary around the world:

Safety-wise, this ingredient has a pretty reassuring track record. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) found very low skin penetration in human skin tests and negative results for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.

The real-world allergy risk is pretty low too; a 2012 European study of 1,031 people recorded only 2 reactions to it (a rate of 0.19%).

You might have seen scary headlines about sunscreen getting into your blood.

In 2019, the FDA found that several chemical filters can absorb through the skin and show up in the bloodstream at small but measurable levels.

Here's the important part: these tiny levels are just a cutoff the FDA uses to decide which ingredients need more testing and doesn't mean anything harmful was found.

The researchers were clear that the results are no reason to stop wearing sunscreen.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Propanediol
  3. 03Butylene Glycol
  4. 04Ethoxydiglycol
  5. 05Glycerin
  6. 06Ascorbyl Glucoside
  7. 07Panthenol
  8. 08Salicylic Acid
  9. 09Camellia Sinensis Callus
  10. 10Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  11. 11Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
  12. 12Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract
  13. 13Ceramide NP
  14. 14Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
  15. 15Panax Ginseng Root Extract
  16. 16Niacinamide
  17. 17Phytic Acid
  18. 18Epigallocatechin Gallate
  19. 19Adenosine
  20. 20Ubiquinone
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum ingredients explained: Water, Glycerin (Skin-Replenishing Ingredient), Diheptyl Succinate (Emollient), Candelilla/Joj…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side