Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster Versus The Ordinary Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm

Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster Versus The Ordinary Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips. T

Paula's Choice Boost Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster Versus The Ordinary Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Sodium PCA to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Diisostearyl Malate

Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate

Polyamide-8

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Triisostearin

Squalane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Water

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Tocopherol

Tribehenin

Palmitic Acid

Hydroxystearic Acid

Sorbitan Isostearate

Trihydroxystearin

Glycine Soja Oil

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Portulaca Pilosa Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lactic Acid

Sucrose Cocoate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Glucomannan

Sorbic Acid

Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate, Polyamide-8, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Triisostearin, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Water, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Palmitic Acid, Hydroxystearic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trihydroxystearin, Glycine Soja Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Sucrose Cocoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Glucomannan, Sorbic Acid

Sorbitan Olivate

Betaine

Jojoba Esters

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Sodium PCA

PCA

Serine

Alanine

Arginine

Proline

Glycine

Glutamic Acid

Lysine Hcl

Threonine

Sodium Lactate

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Polyglycerin-3

Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone

Calcium Gluconate

Gluconolactone

Sodium Benzoate

Squalane, Sorbitan Olivate, Water, Trihydroxystearin, Betaine, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sodium PCA, PCA, Serine, Alanine, Arginine, Proline, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Sodium Lactate, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Tocopherol, Calcium Gluconate, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Trihydroxystearin is what you get when you fully hydrogenate castor oil into a waxy, fine powder.

It's mostly a behind-the-scenes texture enhancer that's especially good at "thixotropic" thing where the product stays thick but applies nicely.

Because of its structure, it also acts as a mild skin conditioning emollient that helps soften skin while preventing moisture loss.

Safety studies show it to be safe and non-irritation in clinical tests. It's typically used in concentrations up to 5%.

Since its an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can potentially feed on. This makes it not fungal-acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side