Skin science article
Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster Versus Youth To The People Superfood Firm and Brighten Vitamin C Serum
Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster Versus Youth To The People Superfood Firm and Brighten Vitamin C Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening s
Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster Versus Youth To The People Superfood Firm and Brighten Vitamin C Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening serum is formulated around Lactic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ascorbic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Propanediol
Glycerin
Ethoxydiglycol
Sodium Hydroxide
PPG-26-Buteth-26
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Bisabolol
Ferulic Acid
Sodium Phytate
Decylene Glycol
Tocopherol
1,2-Hexanediol
Sphingomonas Ferment Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Ascorbic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Hydroxide, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Bisabolol, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Decylene Glycol, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Phenoxyethanol
Lactic Acid
Citric Acid
Malic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Butylene Glycol
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Medicago Sativa Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Panthenol
Heptyl Glucoside
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Sodium Hyaluronate
Parfum
Superoxide Dismutase
Tyrosine
Sodium Citrate
Magnesium Chloride
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Medicago Sativa Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Panthenol, Heptyl Glucoside, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Parfum, Superoxide Dismutase, Tyrosine, Sodium Citrate, Magnesium Chloride, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!