Skin science article
Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Eye Cream Versus Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector
Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Eye Cream Versus Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This brig
Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Eye Cream Versus Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin
Triheptanoin
Ascorbyl Glucoside
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Arachidyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Alcohol
C13-15 Alkane
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hyaluronic Acid
Zerumbone
Bacillus Ferment
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Behenyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Sodium Metabisulfite
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Triheptanoin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, C13-15 Alkane, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hyaluronic Acid, Zerumbone, Bacillus Ferment, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Metabisulfite, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide
Dimethicone
CI 77891
Niacinamide
Ascorbic Acid
Urea
Yeast Amino Acids
Trehalose
Inositol
Taurine
Betaine
Glutathione
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Glucosyl Hesperidin
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Xymenynic Acid
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Mica
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Sorbitol
C13-16 Isoparaffin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyisobutene
Silica
PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether
Acetyl Zingerone
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Cucumis Sativus Extract
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
PEG-8 Methyl Ether Triethoxysilane
Gold
CI 77492
CI 77491
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Niacinamide, Ascorbic Acid, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Glutathione, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Xymenynic Acid, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Mica, Triheptanoin, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Sorbitol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyisobutene, Silica, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Acetyl Zingerone, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, PEG-8 Methyl Ether Triethoxysilane, Gold, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77492, CI 77491
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract comes from sunflower seeds.
Sunflower seeds are rich in vitamin E. Studies show sunflowers contain antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.
The fatty acids found in sunflower seeds include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.
These fatty acids hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.
It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.
As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.
Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.
This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.
A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
We don't have a description for Triheptanoin yet.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!