Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Calm Barrier Protect Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+

Paula's Choice Calm Barrier Protect Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30. This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and b

Paula's Choice Calm Barrier Protect Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Titanium Dioxide

Zinc Oxide

Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

Glycerin

Polyester-8

Aluminum Stearate

C15-19 Alkane

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Silica

Trehalose

Inulin

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Alumina

Glyceryl Caprylate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Diheptyl Succinate

Xanthan Gum

Allantoin

Sodium Polyacrylate

Sodium Hydroxide

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium Citrate

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Lecithin

Glyceryl Oleate

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, Glycerin, Polyester-8, Aluminum Stearate, C15-19 Alkane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica, Trehalose, Inulin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Alumina, Glyceryl Caprylate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Diheptyl Succinate, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Citrate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Lecithin, Glyceryl Oleate, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate

Oryza Sativa Seed Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

1,2-Hexanediol

Drometrizole Trisiloxane

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Tromethamine

Panthenol

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Methicone

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Propanediol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Methylpropanediol

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyether-1

Polyquaternium-51

Beta-Glucan

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Inositol

Ferulic Acid

Ceramide NP

Phytosphingosine

Rice Amino Acids

Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Caprylyl Methicone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Propanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Polyether-1, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Inositol, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Rice Amino Acids, Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  4. 04Dimethicone
  5. 05Cetearyl Alcohol
  6. 06Glycerin
  7. 07PEG-100 Stearate
  8. 08Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
  9. 09Glyceryl Stearate
  10. 10Myristyl Myristate
  11. 11Ceteareth-20
  12. 12Xanthan Gum
  13. 13Disodium EDTA
  14. 14Benzyl Alcohol
  15. 15Phenoxyethanol
  16. 16Water, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Glyceryl Stearate, Myristyl Myristate, Ceteareth-20, Xanthan Gum, Di…
  17. 17Butylene Glycol
  18. 18Polyacrylamide
  19. 19Ethylhexyl Palmitate
  20. 20C13-14 Isoparaffin
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side