Skin science article
Paula's Choice Calm Nourishing Milky Toner Versus Bubble Cosmic Silk Hydrating Milky Toner
Paula's Choice Calm Nourishing Milky Toner Versus Bubble Cosmic Silk Hydrating Milky Toner This calming toner is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium PCA to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating toner is formulated around Xylitylglucos
Paula's Choice Calm Nourishing Milky Toner Versus Bubble Cosmic Silk Hydrating Milky Toner
This calming toner is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium PCA to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating toner is formulated around Xylitylglucoside and Linoleic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Pentylene Glycol
Glycerin
Propanediol
C13-15 Alkane
Panthenol
Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate
Ceteth-20 Phosphate
Sodium PCA
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Allantoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Dicetyl Phosphate
Maltodextrin
Althaea Officinalis Root Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Phytate
Pantolactone
Tocopherol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, C13-15 Alkane, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Ceteth-20 Phosphate, Sodium PCA, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Maltodextrin, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Pantolactone, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Coconut Alkanes
Polyglyceryl-10 Mono/Dioleate
Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
Phosphatidylglycerol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Xylitylglucoside
Glucose
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Oleic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Xanthan Gum
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Disodium Phosphate
Hydrated Silica
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Sodium Phosphate
Sodium Benzoate
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Potassium Sorbate
Hexylene Glycol
Acer Saccharum Sap
Citric Acid
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Carbomer
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Phytosphingosine
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Coconut Alkanes, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Mono/Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Phosphatidylglycerol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Xylitylglucoside, Glucose, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium Phosphate, Hydrated Silica, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, Allantoin, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol, Acer Saccharum Sap, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!