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Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant Versus Geek & Gorgeous Calm Down

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant Versus Geek & Gorgeous Calm Down This calming exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Allantoin to calm redness and refine skin texture. This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glucon

By Peptide Skincare & Beauty Editorial TeamPublished

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant Versus Geek & Gorgeous Calm Down

This calming exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Allantoin to calm redness and refine skin texture.

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid to refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethicone

Salicylic Acid

Avena Sativa Bran Extract

Allantoin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Lauric Acid

Glycerin

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Stearate

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

PEG-40 Stearate

Xanthan Gum

Hexylene Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Allantoin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lauric Acid, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Stearate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, PEG-40 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol

Glycereth-26

Gluconolactone

Lactobionic Acid

Propanediol

Panthenol

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Phragmites Karka Extract

Poria Cocos Extract

Water, Glycereth-26, Gluconolactone, Lactobionic Acid, Propanediol, Salicylic Acid, Panthenol, Glycerin, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Phragmites Karka Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
  4. 04And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
  5. 05You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
  6. 06In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
  7. 07If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
  8. 08When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
  9. 09When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
  10. 10In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
  11. 11Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger l…
  12. 12Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
  13. 13The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
  14. 14Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
  15. 15There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
  16. 16D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
  17. 17Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
  18. 18Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
  19. 19This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
  20. 20Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
Source · skinsort.com ⟶
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