Skin science article
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin Versus iUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin Versus iUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Allantoin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This cal
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin Versus iUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Allantoin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Allantoin
Beta-Glucan
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Phenyl Trimethicone
Dimethicone
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Arctium Majus Root Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Panthenol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Isohexadecane
Sodium Carbomer
Polysorbate 80
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Allantoin, Beta-Glucan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arctium Majus Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Panthenol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isohexadecane, Sodium Carbomer, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Methyl Trimethicone
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Arginine
Caprylyl Glycol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Adenosine
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Pentylene Glycol
Medicago Sativa Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract
Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract
Brassica Campestris Extract
Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract
Aspalathus Linearis Extract
Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract
Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methyl Trimethicone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Centella Asiatica Extract, Allantoin, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Medicago Sativa Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Brassica Campestris Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.
Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.
Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!