Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin Versus Lapothicell Panthenol 10% Soothing Cream

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin Versus Lapothicell Panthenol 10% Soothing Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Allantoin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Allantoin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Allantoin

Beta-Glucan

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Phenyl Trimethicone

Dimethicone

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Arctium Majus Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Panthenol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Isohexadecane

Sodium Carbomer

Polysorbate 80

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Allantoin, Beta-Glucan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arctium Majus Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Panthenol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isohexadecane, Sodium Carbomer, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Methyl Trimethicone

Panthenol 10%

Propanediol

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

1,2-Hexanediol

PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Citrate

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Agrimonia Eupatoria Extract

Tranexamic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Tocopherol

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Silybum Marianum Seed Extract

Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract

Propolis Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Cimicifuga Dahurica Root Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Parfum

Water, Methyl Trimethicone, Panthenol 10%, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Allantoin, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Agrimonia Eupatoria Extract, Tranexamic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Beta-Glucan, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Silybum Marianum Seed Extract, Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract, Propolis Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Cimicifuga Dahurica Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Parfum

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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