Skin science article
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin Versus Paula's Choice Super Hydrate Overnight Mask
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin Versus Paula's Choice Super Hydrate Overnight Mask This calming moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Allantoin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrie
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin Versus Paula's Choice Super Hydrate Overnight Mask
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Allantoin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating overnight mask is formulated around Chondrus Crispus Extract and Ganoderma Lucidum Extract to hydrate skin and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Allantoin
Beta-Glucan
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Phenyl Trimethicone
Dimethicone
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Arctium Majus Root Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Panthenol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Isohexadecane
Sodium Carbomer
Polysorbate 80
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Allantoin, Beta-Glucan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arctium Majus Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Panthenol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isohexadecane, Sodium Carbomer, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract
Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Pentapeptide-59
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract
Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract
Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract
Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Betula Alba Juice
Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Xanthan Gum
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Myristamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
Lauroyl Lysine
Propanediol
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentapeptide-59, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract, Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Betula Alba Juice, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Myristamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Lauroyl Lysine, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!