Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer For Normal To Oily Skin Versus Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer For Normal To Oily Skin Versus Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to calm redness and balance excess oil.

This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Zinc Oxide

Cyclomethicone

Titanium Dioxide

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polysorbate 80

Caprylyl Methicone

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Cetyl Alcohol

Propylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate

Allantoin

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Glycerin

Panthenol

Algae Extract

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone

Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Diethylhexyl Carbonate

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Zinc Oxide, Cyclomethicone, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 80, Caprylyl Methicone, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Allantoin, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Panthenol, Algae Extract, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Zinc Oxide 18.23%

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C13-15 Alkane

Pentylene Glycol

C15-19 Alkane

Propanediol

Moringa Oleifera Leaf Water

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Gluconolactone

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Physalis Alkekengi Calyx Extract

Cetearyl Alcohol

Beta-Carotene

Inositol

Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine

Isostearic Acid

Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

Coco-Glucoside

Polyglycerin-3

Tocopherol

Bisabolol

Polyglyceryl-3 Lactate/Laurate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Citrate

Sclerotium Gum

Arachidyl Glucoside

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Behenyl Alcohol

Sodium Phytate

Maltodextrin

T-Butyl Alcohol

Arachidyl Alcohol

Glucose

Calcium Gluconate

Zinc Oxide 18.23%, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C13-15 Alkane, Pentylene Glycol, C15-19 Alkane, Propanediol, Moringa Oleifera Leaf Water, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Gluconolactone, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Physalis Alkekengi Calyx Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Beta-Carotene, Inositol, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Isostearic Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Coco-Glucoside, Polyglycerin-3, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Polyglyceryl-3 Lactate/Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Sclerotium Gum, Arachidyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Phytate, Maltodextrin, T-Butyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glucose, Calcium Gluconate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.

You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.

Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.

The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Zinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.

On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.

Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.

That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).

The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.

So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.

Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.

That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.

It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.

This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.

It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.

Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.

The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.

Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.

The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.

Another thing worth understanding about formulation:

Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.

A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.

Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).

Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.

As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.

This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.

The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.

Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".

You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.

So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.

The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.

Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.

A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.

The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.

So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.

If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.

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