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Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin Versus Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin Versus Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner This calming toner is formulated around Allantoin and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and hydrate skin. This hydrating toner is formulated around Al

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin Versus Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner

This calming toner is formulated around Allantoin and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This hydrating toner is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Arginine to hydrate skin and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Cyclopentasiloxane

Glycereth-26

Allantoin

Genistein

Carnosine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dimethiconol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Oleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Polysorbate 20

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Xanthan Gum

Laureth-4

Laureth-23

Sodium Hydroxide

Butylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycereth-26, Allantoin, Genistein, Carnosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethiconol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Laureth-4, Laureth-23, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Arginine

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Cymbopogon Nardus Oil

Glycine

Alanine

Serine

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Hedera Helix Extract

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Parietaria Officinalis Extract

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract

Tocopherol

Phenylalanine

Histidine

Valine

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

Citric Acid

Polyquaternium-4

Aspartic Acid

PCA

Methyl Gluceth-20

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

PEG-12 Dimethicone

Ricinoleth-40

Sodium Citrate

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Linalool

Limonene

Citral

Geraniol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Arginine, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Cymbopogon Nardus Oil, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Parietaria Officinalis Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-4, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Ricinoleth-40, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  7. 07Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  8. 08It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  9. 09Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  10. 10A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  11. 11Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
  12. 12You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
  13. 13The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
  14. 14Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
  15. 15Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.
  16. 16It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.
  17. 17EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.
  18. 18What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).
  19. 19Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.
  20. 20Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

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03

Comparison edit

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