Skin science article
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin Versus Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin Versus Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner This calming toner is formulated around Allantoin and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and hydrate skin. This hydrating toner is formulated around Al
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin Versus Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner
This calming toner is formulated around Allantoin and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This hydrating toner is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Arginine to hydrate skin and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycereth-26
Allantoin
Genistein
Carnosine
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dimethiconol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Oleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Linoleic Acid
Phospholipids
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Polysorbate 20
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Laureth-4
Laureth-23
Sodium Hydroxide
Butylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycereth-26, Allantoin, Genistein, Carnosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethiconol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Laureth-4, Laureth-23, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Arginine
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Cymbopogon Nardus Oil
Glycine
Alanine
Serine
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Hedera Helix Extract
Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract
Parietaria Officinalis Extract
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Tocopherol
Phenylalanine
Histidine
Valine
Isoleucine
Proline
Threonine
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Citric Acid
Polyquaternium-4
Aspartic Acid
PCA
Methyl Gluceth-20
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Ricinoleth-40
Sodium Citrate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Linalool
Limonene
Citral
Geraniol
Water, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Arginine, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Cymbopogon Nardus Oil, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Parietaria Officinalis Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-4, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Ricinoleth-40, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!