Paula's Choice Calm Repairing Serum Versus SkinBetter Science Mystro Active Balance Serum

Paula's Choice Calm Repairing Serum Versus SkinBetter Science Mystro Active Balance Serum

This calming serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Astaxanthin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Polysorbate 20

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids

Ceramide NP

Ethylhexylglycerin

Epilobium Angustifolium Extract

Ceramide AP

Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine

Beta-Glucan

Sarcosine

Carbomer

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract

Sea Whip Extract

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Ceramide EOP

Magnesium Aspartate

Potassium Aspartate

Ubiquinone

Phenoxyethanol

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Calcium Chloride

Propylene Glycol

Tocopherol

Sodium Metabisulfite

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Ceramide NP, Ethylhexylglycerin, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Beta-Glucan, Sarcosine, Carbomer, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract, Sea Whip Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ceramide EOP, Magnesium Aspartate, Potassium Aspartate, Ubiquinone, Phenoxyethanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Calcium Chloride, Propylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Copaifera Officinalis Resin

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Isosorbide Dicaprylate

Cetearyl Glucoside

Ethoxydiglycol

Diheptyl Succinate

Squalane

Niacinamide

Panax Notoginseng Root Extract

Theobroma Cacao Leaf Cell Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Sophora Japonica Bud Extract

Humulus Lupulus Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Astaxanthin

Ergothioneine

Thioctic Acid

Sorbitan Olivate

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Tribehenin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Acacia Senegal Gum

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Phenethyl Alcohol

Citric Acid

Phytic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Ethoxydiglycol, Diheptyl Succinate, Squalane, Niacinamide, Panax Notoginseng Root Extract, Theobroma Cacao Leaf Cell Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Sophora Japonica Bud Extract, Humulus Lupulus Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Astaxanthin, Ergothioneine, Thioctic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Tribehenin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.

It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.

As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.

This ingredient is oil-soluble.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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