Paula's Choice Ceramide-Enriched Firming Eye Cream Versus Some By Mi Retinol Intense Advanced Triple Action Eye Cream

Paula's Choice Ceramide-Enriched Firming Eye Cream Versus Some By Mi Retinol Intense Advanced Triple Action Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ns and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Cetyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide Eos

Ceramide NP

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Cholesterol

Squalane

Retinol

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil

Tocopheryl Acetate

Allantoin

Bisabolol

Carnosine

Panthenol

Sodium PCA

Pullulan

Glyceryl Ascorbate

Behenic Acid

Dimethicone

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Ceteareth-25

Sodium Hydroxide

Trideceth-6

Propyl Gallate

Polysorbate 20

Disodium EDTA

Mica

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Cholesterol, Squalane, Retinol, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Carnosine, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Pullulan, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Behenic Acid, Dimethicone, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Hydroxide, Trideceth-6, Propyl Gallate, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Benzoate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polysorbate 60

Niacinamide

Methylpropanediol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Centella Asiatica Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

1,2-Hexanediol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

BHT

Cyclopentasiloxane

Steareth-21

PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Polyacrylamide

Steareth-2

Isohexadecane

Carbomer

Hydroxyacetophenone

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Tromethamine

Palmitic Acid

Polyquaternium-51

Stearic Acid

Retinol 0.1%

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Glycosyl Trehalose

Beta-Glucan

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Laureth-7

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Adenosine

Raffinose

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Lecithin

Tocopherol

Pentylene Glycol

BHA

Myristic Acid

Tranexamic Acid

Propanediol

Dipropylene Glycol

Disodium Phosphate

Collagen

Madecassic Acid

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Asiaticoside

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Asiatic Acid

Glutathione

Retinal

Madecassoside

Sodium Phosphate

Ferulic Acid

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Tetrahydropiperine

Phloretin

Arginine

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Panthenol, BHT, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steareth-21, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, Steareth-2, Isohexadecane, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Tromethamine, Palmitic Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Retinol 0.1%, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycosyl Trehalose, Beta-Glucan, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Laureth-7, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Raffinose, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Pentylene Glycol, BHA, Myristic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Collagen, Madecassic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Asiaticoside, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Asiatic Acid, Glutathione, Retinal, Madecassoside, Sodium Phosphate, Ferulic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tetrahydropiperine, Phloretin, Arginine, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:

Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).

It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.

That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.

Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.

Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.

Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.

Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.

The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.

Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.

In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:

That last two are worth a closer look.

A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.

Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.

So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).

It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.

The research backs this up as well.

A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.

Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).

Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.

Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.

One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.

It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.

Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.

This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.

Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.

The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.

Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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