Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer Versus Malezia 5% Urea Moisturizer

Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer Versus Malezia 5% Urea Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around

Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer Versus Malezia 5% Urea Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Urea to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Ethyl Macadamiate

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Propanediol

Triethylhexanoin

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root

Hydrolyzed Pumpkin Seedcake

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract

Niacinamide

Tripeptide-29

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Panthenol

Sodium PCA

Adenosine

Lecithin

Arginine

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sodium Gluconate

Citric Acid

Isohexadecane

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Ethyl Macadamiate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Hydrolyzed Pumpkin Seedcake, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Tripeptide-29, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Adenosine, Lecithin, Arginine, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Gluconate, Citric Acid, Isohexadecane, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Urea

Dimethicone

Sodium Polyacrylate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Trideceth-6

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Allantoin

Hyaluronic Acid

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Urea, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Trideceth-6, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Allantoin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Ethyl Macadamiate
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Cetearyl Alcohol
  5. 05Propanediol
  6. 06Triethylhexanoin
  7. 07Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
  8. 08Glyceryl Stearate
  9. 09PEG-100 Stearate
  10. 10Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root
  11. 11Hydrolyzed Pumpkin Seedcake
  12. 12Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
  13. 13Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
  14. 14Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract
  15. 15Niacinamide
  16. 16Tripeptide-29
  17. 17Ceramide NP
  18. 18Ceramide AP
  19. 19Ceramide EOP
  20. 20Sodium Hyaluronate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side