Skin science article
Paula's Choice Clear Purifying Clay Mask Versus Acure Incredibly Clear Charcoal Lemonade Face Mask
Paula's Choice Clear Purifying Clay Mask Versus Acure Incredibly Clear Charcoal Lemonade Face Mask This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores. This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Bentonite for a rinse-off
Paula's Choice Clear Purifying Clay Mask Versus Acure Incredibly Clear Charcoal Lemonade Face Mask
This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Bentonite for a rinse-off oil-control boost.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Salicylic Acid 0.5%
Water
Kaolin
Bentonite
Titanium Dioxide
Butylene Glycol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Cetyl Esters
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Glycerin
Illite
Tapioca Starch
Zea Mays Starch
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract
Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Epilobium Fleischeri Extract
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Allantoin
Bisabolol
Zinc PCA
Copper PCA
Lauroyl Lysine
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Xanthan Gum
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Chloride
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Salicylic Acid 0.5%, Water, Kaolin, Bentonite, Titanium Dioxide, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Esters, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Glycerin, Illite, Tapioca Starch, Zea Mays Starch, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Epilobium Fleischeri Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Zinc PCA, Copper PCA, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Glyceryl Stearate
CI 77499
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenylpropanol
Propanediol
Charcoal Powder
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Tocopherol
Water, Kaolin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Bentonite, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, CI 77499, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Propanediol, Citric Acid, Charcoal Powder, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Tocopherol, Sodium Citrate
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bentonite is an aluminium phyllosilicate clay with great absorbent properties. The name 'bentonite' comes from the area where the largest source is found: Fort Benton, Wyoming.
As a clay, bentonite is often used to absorb excess oil and provide exfoliation. It has also been shown to have some antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show bentonite was effective at calming dermatitis from poison ivy and in diaper dermatitis of infants. Bentonite has also been shown to act as a barrier against toxic compounds on your skin.
Sunscreens containing bentonite display higher water resistance and stay on the skin for much longer. The sunscreens containing bentonite also show higher potency and UV light absorbtion.
Bentonite is naturally created from volcanic ash and several natural weathering/hydrothermal processes.
A common usage of bentonite is removing excess protein from white wines. Bentonite contains a property of being able to absorb large amounts of protein from aqueous solutions.
Phyllosilicate clay has a structure formed by sheets.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.