Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer Versus Chanel Le Lift Eye Cream

Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer Versus Chanel Le Lift Eye Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging

Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer Versus Chanel Le Lift Eye Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Cetyl Alcohol

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Glycerin

PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Retinol

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Eos

Cholesterol

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Squalane

Punica Granatum Extract

Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root

Vitis Vinifera

Tocopheryl Acetate

Carnosine

Panthenol

Sodium PCA

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Citrate

Ceteareth-25

Polysorbate 20

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Trideceth-6

Propyl Gallate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Behenic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Cholesterol, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Squalane, Punica Granatum Extract, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Vitis Vinifera, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carnosine, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Ceteareth-25, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trideceth-6, Propyl Gallate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Behenic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Isododecane

Isostearyl Neopentanoate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Pentylene Glycol

PEG-8

Oryza Sativa Powder

Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract

Medicago Sativa Extract

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Cera Alba

Jojoba Esters

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Carbomer

Cetearyl Glucoside

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Phospholipids

Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Escin

Beta-Sitosterol

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Polyquaternium-51

Adenosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phytic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrochloric Acid

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Sodium Benzoate

Citric Acid

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isododecane, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-8, Oryza Sativa Powder, Squalane, Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Cera Alba, Jojoba Esters, Dipropylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Carbomer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chlorphenesin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Escin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Citrate, Beta-Sitosterol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Polyacrylate, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrochloric Acid, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.

This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, …
  4. 04Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
  5. 05Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
  6. 06Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
  7. 07It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
  8. 08While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
  9. 09If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
  10. 10Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
  11. 11In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
  12. 12Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
  13. 13"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
  14. 14Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  15. 15So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  16. 16You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
  17. 17Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
  18. 18On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
  19. 19Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum

Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum ingredients explained: Water⁠, Panthenol⁠, Niacinamide⁠, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride⁠, Myristyl Myristate⁠…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side