Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier Versus The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier Versus The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% This pore-care treatment is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and balance excess oil. This calming serum is formu

Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier Versus The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

This pore-care treatment is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and balance excess oil.

This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Ethoxydiglycol

Glycerin

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Panthenol

Salicylic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Callus

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract

Ceramide NP

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Niacinamide

Phytic Acid

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Adenosine

Ubiquinone

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Centella Asiatica Extract

Sucrose Stearate

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Carbomer

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylyl Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Callus, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Niacinamide, Phytic Acid, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Adenosine, Ubiquinone, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sucrose Stearate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Dimethicone

Azelaic Acid

Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysilicone-11

Isohexadecane

Tocopherol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Isoceteth-20

Polysorbate 60

Triethanolamine

Chlorphenesin

Water, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Azelaic Acid, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane, Tocopherol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Triethanolamine, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethoxydiglycol (aka Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether) is one of the cosmetic world's quiet problem solvers.

In a formula, it is a solvent that dissolves tricky ingredients that don't want to mix in and helps spread ingredients evenly across your skin without leaving a greasy or sticky feeling

This makes it great for hard-to-dissolve actives like vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and self-tanner DHA.

It also has mild humectant and penetration enhancer abilities so it can help some actives absorb a little deeper.

The penetration boost is backed by lab research: studies using human skin samples found it improved how well an active dissolves into the upper layer of skin rather than tearing down your skin barrier. Reviews of its mechanism also describe it interacting gently with the lipids and water in your outermost layer of skin.

Just know this penetration-enhancing effect is not universal. It helps a lot in some formulas and did very little in others (so the benefit really depends on the specific product).

Safety-wise, the evidence is reassuring. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reviewed it and concluded it's safe for use in cosmetics and recognized it as non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-comedogenic in skincare.

Typical leave-on skincare usage lands around 1-10%. The EU has sets caps of 2.6% in non-spray products, 10% in rinse-offs, 7% in oxidative hair dye, and 5% in non-oxidative hair dye.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Methylpropanediol
  3. 03Butylene Glycol
  4. 04Polysorbate 20
  5. 05Salicylic Acid
  6. 06Phytosphingosine
  7. 07Hydroxyethylcellulose
  8. 08Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
  9. 09Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
  10. 10Epilobium Angustifolium Extract
  11. 11Bisabolol
  12. 12Tetrasodium EDTA
  13. 13Sodium Hydroxide
  14. 14Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Salicylic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Bisabolol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
  15. 15Salix Alba Bark Water
  16. 16Betaine Salicylate
  17. 17Niacinamide
  18. 181,2-Hexanediol
  19. 19Arginine
  20. 20Panthenol
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment

Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment ingredients explained: Propylene Glycol⁠, PEG-75 Stearate⁠, PEG-8⁠, Water⁠, Salicylic Acid⁠, Glycerin⁠, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kern…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side