Skin science article
Paula's Choice Defense Nightly Reconditioning Moisturizer Versus Dermalogica Pure Night Powerbright
Paula's Choice Defense Nightly Reconditioning Moisturizer Versus Dermalogica Pure Night Powerbright This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This bright
Paula's Choice Defense Nightly Reconditioning Moisturizer Versus Dermalogica Pure Night Powerbright
This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This brightening night moisturizer is formulated around Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isoamyl Laurate
Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract
Almond/Borage/Linseed/Olive Acids/Glycerides
Medicago Sativa Extract
Sesamum Indicum Seed
Hydrolyzed Eruca Sativa Leaf
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Hydrolyzed Algae Extract
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide Ng
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cocoyl Proline
Tocopherol
Allantoin
Trehalose
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Alaria Esculenta Extract
Adenosine Phosphate
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Tribehenin
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Sorbitan Olivate
Sodium Gluconate
Zinc Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
Magnesium Aspartate
Cetearyl Olivate
Isoamyl Cocoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate
Microcrystalline Cellulose
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Xanthan Gum
Pentylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol Stearate
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isoamyl Laurate, Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract, Almond/Borage/Linseed/Olive Acids/Glycerides, Medicago Sativa Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed, Hydrolyzed Eruca Sativa Leaf, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Algae Extract, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide Ng, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cocoyl Proline, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Trehalose, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Adenosine Phosphate, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Tribehenin, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Aspartate, Cetearyl Olivate, Isoamyl Cocoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Methylheptyl Isostearate
Butylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Cetyl Alcohol
Isohexadecane
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Cetyl Caprylate
Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract
Strelitzia Nicolai Seed Aril Extract
Oligopeptide-34
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Niacinamide
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Beta-Sitosterol
Zinc Glycinate
Decyl Glucoside
Polysilicone-11
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethiconol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Aminomethyl Propanol
Disodium EDTA
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methylheptyl Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetyl Caprylate, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Strelitzia Nicolai Seed Aril Extract, Oligopeptide-34, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Niacinamide, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Beta-Sitosterol, Zinc Glycinate, Decyl Glucoside, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!